Saturday, November 13, 2010

Safe and Sound

In Jerusalem, safe and sound ... and sleepy!

But an 11-hour flight beats Felix's three weeks in a boat with storms, seasickness, pirates, and the dangerous grosse Merfisch of the deep:

"Yet another peril is to be met with, which is called Troyp, from the fish Trays, which, when it becomes aware of a ship, comes forth from the depths, and pierces the ship with his beak; for he has a beak fashioned like an auger, and unless he be driven away from the ship he bores through it. He cannot be forced away from the ship save by a fearless look, so that one should lean out of the ship over the water, and unflinchingly look into the eyes of the fish, while the fish meanwhile looks at him with a terrible gaze. If he who looks at the fish grows terrified, and begins to turn his eyes away, the beast straightway rises, snatches him down beneath the water, and devours him. Let this suffice about the perils of the sea." -- Fabri, Wanderings, vol. VII, p. 125.

Koninklijke Bibliotheek, KA 16, fol. 106v

Friday, November 12, 2010

When Life Gives You Limens...


Liminality” is a concept that has interested anthropologists and students of pilgrimage for the past two decades. In Latin, a limen is a threshold, which is an in-between place – not inside, not outside the house.  So, “liminality” is a kind of “threshold-ness” a being in-between – just like a pilgrim on a journey, not at home, but not yet at a destination, either. (The term was first used by the anthropologist Arnold van Gennep, who used it to described the intermediate phase in a ritual initiation, where the person undergoing a rite of passage has left her old identity, but hasn’t yet taken on a new one. ) I once heard Jás Elsner (Pilgrimage Past and Present: Sacred Travel and Sacred Space in the World Religions, 1995) say that the entire experience of a modern international flight is liminal. You enter a strange space; your old identity is left behind (you have to carry papers even to prove who you are); you fly over a space often claimed by no one; and when you arrive at the new destination, you have to go through the ritual of disembarking, showing your passport, and, at that point, become a “new” person.  The time in-between the start and the finish of your journey, or pilgrimage, is a “liminal state”.

Airports themselves often feel “noplace” (at least inside of them). In the air, as a traveler, you’re also “noplace” and “nowhere” at once. I think this might be especially true in those short hallways between the plane and the customs and passport control, before you’ve actually “entered” the new country. You’ve not really set foot on the state territory, actually ... but you are someplace, as well. You can see it, and touch it, and slip on it if you get tangled up in your luggage.  Makes you wonder how “real” modern nation-state borders really are—and who decides where they are, when they begin and end, and why.

Anthropologists of pilgrimage, especially Victor and Edith Turner (Image and Pilgrimage in Christian Culture, 1978), also like to talk about the communitas of pilgrimage—another Latin word that means here a sense of shared community, and especially the shared community of the band of travelers: a new identity of being pilgrims together. 

Felix Fabri spent almost three months in a “liminal state” on his way to Jerusalem.  Felix enjoyed a sense of communitas with the other pilgrims on his ship, but communitas also had its limits for him, too. On his way to Jerusalem in 1480 (his first trip), he tells us that the French pilgrims and the German pilgrims did not leave off their old identities for one new happy pilgrim band, at all:

            “...we unanimously decided that no more games of cards or dice should be played on board of the [pilgrim] galley, that no quarrels, oaths, or blasphemies should be allowed, and that the clerks and priests should add litanies to their usual daily prayers. Indeed, before this decree was made, much disorder took place in these matters, for men were gambling morning, noon, and night, especially the Bishop of Orleans with his suite; and withal they swore most dreadfully, and quarreled daily, for the French and we Germans were always at blows....For the French are proud and passionate men; and therefore, I believe that it was an act of divine providence that they were separated from us, and our galley cleared of them; for we should scarcely have reached Jerusalem in their company without bloodshed and the murder of some of us.”

[Felix Fabri, The Book of the Wanderings of Brother Felix Fabri, trans. and ed. by Aubrey Stewart, Palestine Pilgrims’ Text Society; vol. VII, p. 20.]

No games, dice, or swearing on the first leg of the flight. Everyone’s been pretty well behaved...so far!

On the Way!

When Felix Fabri left for Jerusalem, he traveled by horse and boat. I'm heading off on an airplane from St. Louis, but I bet the excitement is the same.

Fabri says that as his party was entering Venice by boat (where they would get a pilgrim galley to sail them to Jerusalem), they started singing the German pilgrim hymn, "In Gottes Namen Fahren Wir". They also (in his imagined pilgrimage, the Sionpilger, sang a response, In mari via tua.

Here, you can read the German hymn, and here you can listen to the Oxford Consort Iridiana sing In mari via tua. Both are going through my head right now, as I bet they were for Felix as he set out.

More later!

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

The Beginning

Friar Felix Fabri, a Dominican reformer and pilgrim to Jerusalem in 1480, left his adopted hometown of Ulm, Germany, for a second trip to
Jerusalem, Mount Sinai, and Egypt in April of 1483.
This blog will retrace part of his journey.

(For the fullest account available online in English, see the link below to the "Traveling to Jerusalem" website at the University of Colorado-Pueblo)

Fabri began his account of his journey thus:

I SHALL now begin my wanderings on my most desirable and delightful pilgrimage, which pilgrimage I intend to describe in the following order, arranging it in twelve chapters, according to the twelve months, more or less, for which the pilgrimage lasted, and dividing each chapter into as many heads as there are days in the month, so that each month makes a chapter and each day a heading. I shall begin with the day of my departure, and end with that of my return, and shall faithfully set down all the places which we saw month by month and day by day, and will tell truly all that befell us in each month and on each day, adding descriptions of the holy and other places the better to explain my narrative. For I never passed one single day while I was on my travels without writing some notes, not even when I was at sea, in storms, or in the Holy Land; and in the desert I have frequently written as I sat on an ass or a camel; or at night, while the others were asleep, I would sit and put into writing what I had seen...

On the 14th [of April, 1483] having got together the baggage which I intended to carry with me, and having placed it on the horse which I had bought, I mounted, and was about to ride away in company with the Count's servant. However, as I sat upon my horse, all the brethren flocked round me and eagerly begged me to take careful note of all the holy places I saw, and to write an account of them and bring it to them, so that they also, in mind, if not in body, might enjoy the pleasure of visiting the holy places. I promised the brethren that I would do this, and with that the Count's servant and I went out of the convent and rode stealthily, as though hiding ourselves, out of the city, crossing the river Danube by the gate which leads to the sheep-bridge. 


Ulm in Fabri's day. From Hartmann Schedel's Weltchronik (the Nuremberg Chronicle), 1493, fols. 190v-191r

Ulm's location:


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Stay tuned for more...