Early morning (before 6:30am) in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre -- the last chance to visit -- the Greek monks were chanting a service behind the tomb in the rotunda, and the Franciscan friars were chanting their own service on top of the rock of Calvary. It was hardly light, and candles glowed in the dark church. Hardly any tourists -- most people in the Church were there for devotion, and it was a *completely* different place this morning.
Then, from out of the shadows, a dozen Knights of Malta walked across the rotunda, dressed in their white, floor-length capes and red Maltese crosses. They could have stepped from out of time -- crusaders, right there. And then, they stopped in front of the holy tomb ... and pulled out their digital cameras! They were just tourists, too.
Not tourists, really, or only ... or completely devout -- but full of contradictions, like the city of Jerusalem.
Knights in Disguise
Leaving the city through the Jaffa Gate to head back, I saw the Knights of Malta just outside the Ottoman ramparts. But they weren't planning a new crusade -- just taken off their robes and were waiting for their tour bus. The old and the new, together.
Is that bread? From the late night bakery you showed us in the webinar perhaps? Regardless, it's a LOT of stuff to lug around on one's head.
ReplyDeleteI always find the sheer FORTITUDE of other cultures by comparison to ours to be striking. Little grannies toting what seems like tons of washing on their heads, shirpas giving the mules a run for their money, mothers squatting for hours at a time to grind corn or weave baskets, or this guy balancing enough bread to feed a banquet while navigating ancient narrow streets and steps trodden by the feet of centuries. Americans have their own kind of stamina and resolve, but the "pick it up and go" attitude of the ancient world never ceases to impress me.
Safe journey home, Dr. B!
In the last picture that guy is carrying a lot of stuff on his head. That is interesting because that is something you do not normally see around here. It is also strange to me that the Knights of Malta are just ordinary tourists walking around taking pictures like any other person would be doing.
ReplyDeleteThe pictures are great! And that guy is carrying a lot on top of his head. I don't think I would ever see anyone in the U.S. carry that much on their head. It was very interesting to read about the Knights of Malta who were just ordinary tourists who were taking pictures.
ReplyDeleteSomething about Knights of Malta waiting for a tour bus just makes me laugh. I still can't get over how nonchalant the people in Old Jerusalem are. I would just be in awe thinking of all the history there.
ReplyDeleteDid you by chance see any of the new historical finds popping up this year? I remember hearing about an ancient road they found under the streets, and a wall supposedly built by Solomon.
Safe travels!
Jerusalem seems to be a very unique city with so much history and full of contradictions. The tourists with digital cameras getting around Jerusalem in a tour bus, yet dressed as authentic crusaders from centuries ago, is definitely an interesting blend of the old and new worlds. It was good that you had great access to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at such an early hour to see things first hand.
ReplyDeleteThe first time I saw the guy carrying the bread on his head, my first thought was: Subway's got nothin on him. I thougt he was delivering a 12 foot sandwich. Or is it 2 meters?
ReplyDeleteThe knights that were acually tourists didn't strike me as weird at all. We see that stuff here all the time. For example, thursday was the Harry Potter opening day and there were lots of people dressed up as wizards. Old and the New.
ReplyDeletePS. My dad collects drink costers. could you bring me back one?
Seeing the Knights touring the place makes me happy. It shows that anyone can get past a grudge. I'd like to see more places around the world be this way that may perhaps bar someone from entering due to their heritage, or refuse to go somewhere because of something that happened long ago.
ReplyDeleteI know that everyone else has also said this but I too find it extremely strange to see some man walking around with so much on top of his head. AND walking up stairs! That is definitely not the type of work that you see people around here doing. I guess you could say that they really do "work for their money." Also, when read about the Knights of Malta being just tourists I laughed. You made it seem so real and then all of a sudden they were just like you and I. I thought it was funny.
ReplyDeleteI find the knights walking around in their tradition garb and then pulling out a digital camera hilarious. I really wonder what people from Biblical times would have thought about something like that.
ReplyDeletespeak about the tourists "knight" were they borrowed the cloth? you said "most people in the Church were there for devotion, and it was a *completely* different place this morning." can you explain more about how they are different? i don't quiet understand this part.
ReplyDeleteIt's so cool to see the combination of the knights then and now.
ReplyDeleteWow, it seems like the "theme" of this trip is the juxtaposition of Jerusalem and all of its historical significance with modernity. It really creates many stark contrasts. I suppose I would expect this in a way, however, because it is an old city trying to preserve its ancient characteristics while being "dragged" into the modern era.
ReplyDeleteI found the part about the Knights of Malta and the cameras very funny and interesting. I guess technology really is reaching everyone in all walks of life. After looking at the picture with guy carrying all the food, I was looking at the road and I was wondering if the ramps in the street are built so a cart or a car is able to go up the street?
ReplyDeleteI know that a lot of people have pointed this out, but that guy is carrying a ton of stuff on his head. I wonder how much it weighs. The knight story was also very funny.
ReplyDeletePeople do live in this city I wonder how they feel about tourists!? This isn't like Vegas, this is a holy place. I wonder if the tourists that visit places like this are aware and respectful? I bet the locals have a time of the day they go to worship...if you know I'd be curious to know. Knights!?!?!?!? What do the Knights of Malta do? I didn't know that there were still knights. Like the Da Vinci Code knights??? Please fill me in.
ReplyDeleteI feel as if you were working that Knights of Malta story up for a big climatic ending....only to find out that they were just tourists. It's kind of funny, actually. But, like Daniel said, Harry Potter came out on Thursday (I went at midnight. It was awesome!), and a lot of people were dressed up. I think that is pretty much expected, but I think that seeing people dressed up as knights isn't exactly something you'd expect to see on a regular basis.
ReplyDeleteThe Knights of Malta (The Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta) are indeed a Catholic order with roots in the Knights Hospitaller. Though chartered in the late 11th Century to care for the poor and sick of the Holy Land, after the conquest of Jerusalem by Muslims the order moved to Malta ultimately. They were based there until their expulsion by Napolean. Since then they have become a sovereign subject of international law and continue today.
ReplyDeleteThis Wikipedia entry explains their modern existence:
"Today the order has about 12,500 members; 80,000 permanent volunteers; and 20,000 medical personnel including doctors, nurses, auxiliaries and paramedics. The goal is to assist the elderly, handicapped, refugeed, children, homeless, those with terminal illness and leprosy in five continents of the world, without distinction of race or religion. In several countries—including France, Germany and Ireland—the local associations of the Order are important providers of first aid training, first aid services and emergency medical services. Through its worldwide relief corps—Malteser International—the Order is also engaged to aid victims of natural disasters, epidemics and armed conflicts."
I feel that it must have been humerous to see the knights walking around in uniform then all of a sudden taking out thier cameras.
ReplyDeleteWere you able to go inside the holy Sepulchre while you were there? I would imagine that you wouldnt be able to take pictures though. Very cool trip and thanks for sharing it with us.
ReplyDeleteWow I wish that I could visit the Holy Sepulcher someday. It must have been a chilling experience to have heard the Greek monks chanting their service. Like the previous poster, I was wondering did you get to enter the Holy Sepulcher or are visitors not allowed in?
ReplyDeleteI wonder how busy the city was during the day and how friendly the people were to Americans. I also wonder how diverse the culture is there or if it’s strictly everyone sticks to their own kind. I also wonder how the people there feel about all the tourism and how much money their country makes just off of tourism. I have a lot of questions because this is some place that I would one day hopefully be able to travel to and explore. I would ideally go for at least two weeks just to make sure I get in all that they have to offer without feeling rushed.
ReplyDeleteThis is the church of the ressurection! Supposedly this was the place that christ was crucified, well not inside the church but in Golgotha, the hill of calvary. His remaints were said to be buried there. I would love to go there, it is kind of like the muslim pilgrimage, only it is not required for christians.
ReplyDeleteSeeing the Holy Sepulcher would be one neat thing to do. It is pretty also neat to see that people get so into this stuff, like the knights being dressed up, almost the same way people go crazy for sporting events and concerts.
ReplyDeleteIt would be interesting to know what the early Knights of Malta would think about the modern pilgrimages of members of their order. Centuries ago they came armed with swords, and now they are armed with digital cameras. Despite the contradictions due to contemporary society, the early members of the order would probalby be pleased that the current members are still going on pilgrimage. They would lso probably be pleased that fter all of this time the order is stickng to the same noble purpose.
ReplyDeleteI love the mix of old and new represented here. Yes, Jerusalem is a city rich in history and religious lore, but it's also very much rooted in today's world.
ReplyDeleteAs Matthew Sherland said, it would be interesting to know what the first Knights of Malta would think of their modern day brothers coming for pilgrimage. However, from the aspect of an historical reenactor, I have to disagree with his idea. I think the early Knights might actually be somewhat confused (and possibly angry) as to the reason for their modern brethren's journey, since the modern knights were not there for battle or to tend the sick. Unfortunately we'll never be able to find out since the first knights are long dead and gone.
Another thing I found interesting is that in the photo of the man carrying the freshly baked bread, the man in the foreground is listening to an ipod. I think it's an excellent representation of the way the city has changed and endured. Bakers in Jerusalem have been going about their business, making and selling their goods for thousands of years, alongside people going about their daily lives. This picture shows that despite the many years that have passed between the city's foundation and today, ordinary life in Jerusalem carries on.
I think that they way the city is now shows that even though, Jerusalem's past has come and gone, it is still there in some way or another, showing through and mingling with the new in the city.
ReplyDeleteI find the picture of the bread striking because bread is something that doesn't change. It has been around for thousands of years but is made with recipes that are very similar to the first recipes. There may be electric machinery taking part but the very act of breaking into fresh bread is timeless that it is something almost everyone can identify with.
ReplyDeleteI like how the people in Jerusalem stick to their traditions and still do things that started thousands of years ago.
ReplyDeleteThe Knights just don't look as I'd imagined. Where's the suit of armor? The chainmail? I'm guessing that being a squire in today's world isn't as cracked up as it used to be. They still have squires, right?
ReplyDelete